Future Fabrics Expo 2024

The two-day visit to the Future Fabrics Expo was truly inspiring, showcasing how this event has grown each year and attracted significant attention from the fashion industry. The expo is dedicated to inspiring the necessary changes to accelerate the adoption of next-generation materials and to challenge current practices and standards.

Despite the growing traction in communications, developments, and the support from various governing bodies, the 'golden answers' have yet to be unveiled. It is widely recognised that the climate crisis, partly driven by the exhaustive materials industry that supports fashion, interiors, and related sectors, demands a multi-pronged approach. However, there still appears to be a lack of accountability from large brands and corporations to take financial risks and demonstrate to their consumers and stakeholders their commitment to change. If they do not take this leap, who will?

It was encouraging to see a spotlight on the footwear industry, one of the most complex apparel sectors to navigate. The expo featured companies presenting alternative materials, disassembly techniques, and innovative manufacturing methods. While the focus remained on fashion trainers, there was little traction in performance footwear. Perhaps next year will bring new innovations?

The interior sector also had its official space in the sustainable fabrics arena. This sector is often overlooked due to strict flame retardant (FR) coating laws in the UK, which prevent most interior products from being recycled. The second-hand market plays a key role in the lifecycle of these products. There is growing concern that flame retardants offer minimal benefit in fires and actually increase smoke toxicity, the main cause of fire-related deaths. Reference

Engaging discussions in the regenerative agriculture industry focused on how other stakeholders, such as local governments and communities, can share more responsibility alongside farmers. By supporting data collection, we can enhance farm resilience to extreme weather and climate change, thereby boosting the sustainability and vitality of rural communities. This approach supports not just the farmers' economics but also local biodiversity.

Discussions on price points for next-generation materials, one of my favourite topics, explored whether larger companies can financially support material innovators during the upscale process. By offering lower costs for goods, smaller brands can gain accessibility. This green growth strategy can increase volume uptake, helping innovators accelerate towards efficiency while providing an opportunity for adoption by smaller brands.

Exciting times lie ahead in the alternative leather market. Innovations such as bacterial cellulose from XYMBIOZ, grape matter from Planet of the Grapes, and sugar cane waste from Hydefy are emerging. While these biobased leather alternatives are inspiring, we are still waiting for substantial progress in scaling up manufacturing and securing funding to bring these lab concepts to the commercial market with the durability that leather goods require.

Spotlight on new material innovations:

• Lokareboon - A material from pre-consumer balloon manufacturing waste into a new 100% recycled and recyclable one.

• Recinder - a 100% recycled material from discarded broken ceramic and waste ash that has been diverted from landfill. Suitable for tiling, lighting and tableware. 

• TATINOYA/KORI (Woven Wood) - Tatinoya unties traditional Nishijin weaving methods with paper thin slices of natural wood veneer from left over planks. Resulting in  a lightweight and pliable material.

• FIIBA - 60% regenerated banana fibre, 40% organic cotton material woven fabric. 100% of the banana feedstock is from agricultural waste using the lyocell process.

The Podcast is here …

Studio Osmo’s first podcast series - Transcend Matter -  is finally here! 

This podcast aims to explore the fascinating interplay of materials that not only redefine aesthetics but address pressing human and environmental challenges. 

Humanising skill sets between academia and design to promote cross collaboration, driving the innovation for future materials. 

Welcome are series one speakers:

Episode 1: Scott Fulbright - CEO of Living Ink

• Can algae revolutionise the ink industry? Living Ink is leading the charge in sustainable innovation, transforming waste into bio-based, renewable carbon black with a negative carbon footprint. Join us as Scott shares the raw, unfiltered journey of launching a groundbreaking company, the urgent need to rethink industry standards, and how practicing gratitude keeps him focused on his mission.

Episode 2:  Sara Robertson - Textile innovator at Sara & Sara

• From early electronic textiles pioneer to leading large-scale commercial projects, Sara Robertson joins us to share her journey and insights on the future of materials innovation! Sara Robertson, alongside her design partner Sarah Taylor, has been revolutionising textile properties since 2014 by leveraging existing manufacturing capabilities in the UK. In this episode, Sara opens up about the vulnerabilities and triumphs of running a design studio. We delve into the essential collaboration between academia and design needed to drive textile innovation forward.

Episode 3: Catherine Mondoa - Material Researcher at Material Connection

• Bridging engineering and design in material research, Catherine Mondoa, unfolds what the future of hybrid design and academic roles could look like. Catherine Mondoa is a material researcher at Materials Connection in New York, where cross-industry expertise helps brands and partners find the right materials faster. Join us as we explore the strong bond between Emma and Catherine, forged during their time at the Royal College of Art. Catherine shares her struggles in finding her place between academia and design, and navigating the chaos of graduating in a post-COVID world.

Episode 4: Hannah Elisabeth Jones - PhD candidate in bio-based materials, Manchester Metropolitan University

• Exploring how a more holistic approach to understanding and developing materials can create deeper, more meaningful connections with the world around us. Hannah Elisabeth Jones is a researcher, educator, and multidisciplinary artist-designer specializing in bio-based materials and organic color. Currently pursuing a PhD in design at Manchester Metropolitan University, Hannah's work is inspired by her deep connection with nature. In this episode, Hannah unfolds her holistic approach to materials, sharing her journey through the discovery of various bio-based materials and their novel properties. 

Episode 5: Barbara Leite - Material Developer at RDD Textiles

• How do new material innovations make it to market? Discover the secrets behind commercial textile accelerators and the journey of upscaling sustainable materials to reach our wardrobes. Barbara Leite, a lead material developer at the textile commercial accelerator RDD in Portugal, joins us to share her expertise. Having collaborated on commercial projects, her deep chemistry knowledge has been a source of inspiration and growth for my own work. In this episode, we dive into the challenges of accelerating new and novel materials and dyes, uncovering the communication gaps between brands and their material partners.

Available on the following platforms:

Spotfiy💚

https://open.spotify.com/show/0nmqY8sFNeozcw9yb2mPnA

YouTube❤️

https://www.youtube.com/@TranscendMatter-StudioOsmo

Apple Podcasts💜

https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/transcend-matter/id1752851279

Lets Talk About Wool

On Tuesday 7th May I was invited to participate in a discussion during London Craft Week at The Mills Fabrica with The Woolmark Company and THE CAMPAIGN FOR WOOL LTD. A truly insightful conversation in regard to the current position of wool within the fashion industry and the future gains that are needed to create more traction for a bigger impact in the future. The panelists were diverse in their specialisms and approaches but all united with knowledge and passion to find better ways forward for the textile industry.

Here are my takeaways:

- Currently, there's a significant investment in sustainable startups and research platforms, but commercial uptake remains limited. Why? 🌱

- Corporate responsibility is crucial in promoting sustainable applications and materials within their own companies, not just to customers. To drive more brands to adopt sustainable practices. 🗯

- The cost of novel sustainable fibres and materials is higher than traditional textiles due to new manufacturing processes and quantities produced. How can we communicate to consumers why this price point exists and the necessary steps before new materials can match traditional prices? 💰

- Is it time to rethink hiring practices? With the evolving field of sustainable materials, are new or hybrid roles needed to support the transition to a more planet-centered design approach in the industry? 🌅

A great quote from Rebecca Kelley  from The Woolmark Company  ‘One thing is clear we are not short on innovation or the people needed for change, as the saying goes we don’t rise to the level of our goals we fall to the level of our systems.’

I look forward to more discussion in the future from the platforms, with the ultimate aim to create genuine traction within the change that needs to take place across all things material related.

Tech Textile 2024

Last month's research trip to Techtextil in Frankfurt, Germany, was a great eye opener into the current traction being made within performance and in particular how we can redefine performance fabrics that align with planet-centered design approaches.

My head is officially full of inspiration after two days of impromptu chat and discoveries. Here’s a brief download of my brain from the trip:

- Applications of craft within para amid fibers are being explored using techniques such as tufting, in comparison to weaving and knitting methods traditionally manufactured with these fibers.

- Sustainable awareness is gaining huge traction within PPE and other high-performance level fabrics. Natural fibres are replacing petroleum-based fibres wherever possible without affecting performance. Also, dope dying is on the rise to reduce water consumption during the dye process.

- Recycled PPE fabric is becoming increasingly popular, with meta aramids being the most common. Although performance may vary after recycling, there is still an opportunity for lower-performing fabrics to utilise this recycled process.

- New developments within AI-based platforms support companies with data-driven inputs to understand the transparency of all the materials and systems used throughout their companies supply chain.

Below are my newly discovered top start up's:

NOOSA™ - Bio-newable fiber supplier 🌿 https://noosafiber.com/

NUVI - 100% Biobased coatings and materials manufacturer 👩‍🔬 https://www.nuvi.earth/

Tailr - Redefining production systems for the clothing industry 🌐 https://tailr.ai/

Queen Mary’s Robotics Lab

Thanks to the London e-textiles group for organizing a fascinating tour at the Queen Mary University soft robotics department. It was incredible to witness firsthand the innovative projects led by PhD students, postdoc researchers, and the insightful guidance of Sophie Skach.

The tour showcased how textiles are being utilized beyond aesthetics, with a focus on optimizing and hacking the textile structure to integrate alternative materials into robotic projects. It's a testament to the boundless creativity and potential within the e-textiles field.

Why textiles? I hear you ask.

Textiles offer an abundance of benefits, including comfort, durability, breathability, and functionality, making them incredibly versatile. Beyond their traditional roles, textiles can also serve as actuators, sensors, and reinforcements for soft materials.

Moreover, the tactile experience provided by textiles allows for more intimate integration into various aspects of life, including medical applications, mobility, therapy, and daily activities. This versatility and adaptability make textiles indispensable in enhancing both comfort and functionality across a wide range of soft robotic contexts.

A big thank you to Sara Robertson, Lucie Hernandez, Sophie Skach, Abu Bakar Dawood, Thomas Mack and Cem Suulker for such an enlightening experience!